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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.